I debated for quite a while if I wanted to re-release my Adrian pattern. Not because I don't like it, I still think it's a great pattern -- but I've since changed how I sew my bras and I considered the Adrian pattern to be 'dated'. If I were to update the pattern and release it, how would I guarantee that the people who previously purchased it got the updated version?
Hence, this post. I'll be detailing (with pictures!) a step-by step guide on how I sew my new bras. Onward!
Step 1:
Sew your cups as you usually would. If you own a serger, serge the cups and topstich the seam the width of your serger needles.
Step 2:
Assemble your cradle as you usually would, but leave the band/wings unattached.
Step 3:
To attach the wings:
If you have a band lining: Right side of the self fabric and right side of the lining fabrics together, either lockstitch or serge this. Flip the wings into their correct position and topstitch. 
If you don't have a band lining:
Start with a side cradle and its lining. Sandwich the corresponding band piece in between the right side of the lining and the right side of the self fabric. It'll look a little something like a gusset sandwiched to encase the seam.
Step 4:
Tack your outer side cup to the correct side of the side cradle by about 3/4". All you need to use it a straight stitch. If you intend on using elastic on the center front gore as well, repeat this step to the inner cup pieces and the center front gore.
Step 4:
Attach your channeling. Sew your channeling strips to the cup and cradle directly, in one step all together. Stop stitching and backtack where your Step 3 tack of the cups begins. Trim away any excess. This way, you eliminate the dual stitching on the interior of your bra, making it look more professional.
Step 5:
Sew on your band elastic and topstitch. Next, only baste the underarm elastic on with a zigzag. Trim back any channeling excess to allow the elastic to fold neatly over the channeling.
Step 6:
Straight-stitch down your channeling using the method you prefer. You'll be folding the underarm elastic over your open channeling end on the side cradle, so make sure that you don't stitch too high that you won't be able to trim off the correct amount of channeling to allow the elastic to fold over.
Step 7:
Finish attaching the underarm elastic, securing it with a zigzag stitch.
Step 8:
Insert your underwires and bartack the center front as well as the sides where we just folded the elastic over the channeling.
Step 9: Finish your bra as usual. You're done!
I find this method is neat, professional-looking, and helps keep the bra newer longer. What do you think? Were you already using this method, or is this your first time coming across it?
Let me know!
The Adrian pattern can be found here.
NOTE: I suggest only using this method for the outer side of the cup. If you use it for the inner side and you have a neckline elastic that goes over the channeling in the front gore, the wires don't reach the top of the gore and the elastic flips out. Not the worst thing in the world by any means, but it can be avoided.
