Coming Soon

Adrian Bra: Updating a Pattern

I debated for quite a while if I wanted to re-release my Adrian pattern. Not because I don't like it, I still think it's a great pattern -- but I've since changed how I sew my bras and I considered the Adrian pattern to be 'dated'. If I were to update the pattern and release it, how would I guarantee that the people who previously purchased it got the updated version? Hence, this post. I'll be detailing (with pictures!) a step-by step guide on how I sew my new bras. Onward!  Step 1: Sew your cups as you usually would. If you own a serger, serge the cups and topstich the seam the width of your serger needles.  Step 2: Assemble your cradle as you usually would, but leave the band/wings unattached.  Step 3: To attach the wings: If you have a band lining: Right side of the self fabric and right side of the lining fabrics together, either lockstitch or serge this. Flip the wings into their correct position and topstitch.  If you don't have a band lining: Start with a side cradle and its lining. Sandwich the corresponding band piece in between the right side of the lining and the right side of the self fabric. It'll look a little something like a gusset sandwiched to encase the seam.  Step 4: Tack your outer side cup to the correct side of the side cradle by about 3/4". All you need to use it a straight stitch. If you intend on using elastic on the center front gore as well, repeat this step to the inner cup pieces and the center front gore.  Step 4: Attach your channeling. Sew your channeling strips to the cup and cradle directly, in one step all together. Stop stitching and backtack where your Step 3 tack of the cups begins. Trim away any excess. This way, you eliminate the dual stitching on the interior of your bra, making it look more professional.  Step 5:  Sew on your band elastic and topstitch. Next, only baste the underarm elastic on with a zigzag. Trim back any channeling excess to allow the elastic to fold neatly over the channeling.  Step 6: Straight-stitch down your channeling using the method you prefer. You'll be folding the underarm elastic over your open channeling end on the side cradle, so make sure that you don't stitch too high that you won't be able to trim off the correct amount of channeling to allow the elastic to fold over.   Step 7: Finish attaching the underarm elastic, securing it with a zigzag stitch.  Step 8: Insert your underwires and bartack the center front as well as the sides where we just folded the elastic over the channeling.  Step 9: Finish your bra as usual. You're done! I find this method is neat, professional-looking, and helps keep the bra newer longer. What do you think? Were you already using this method, or is this your first time coming across it? Let me know!  The Adrian pattern can be found here. NOTE: I suggest only using this method for the outer side of the cup. If you use it for the inner side and you have a neckline elastic that goes over the channeling in the front gore, the wires don't reach the top of the gore and the elastic flips out. Not the worst thing in the world by any means, but it can be avoided.  

What's My Bra Size?

This post will serve as a starting point for your sizing. We use UK sizing, so keep that in mind when selecting a cup size. 

Simple Hack for Your Favourite Knicker Pattern

A few years ago, I was working on a custom set for a client and ended up making these undies our of a brilliant blue lace and matching silk. It's an interesting design, and it's one that I'm fairly proud of. Here's a tutorial on how to create it for yourself using almost any panty pattern.    First, start off with your panty pattern of choice. I'm using our defunct Pippa Panty Pattern, but the pattern was a fairly classic hi-cut bikini so I'm sure you already own one of those or will have no trouble sourcing one.  1. Place a tracing sheet over your front pattern piece. If you're somebody who has full pattern pieces and does not cut on the fold, I suggest using the half the pattern and cutting on the fold for this one.  2. Mark notches for the halfway point on the leg opening and the quarter mark from center front for the waist opening.  3. Connect those two lines. Extend the line upwards towards center front until it's in line with center front.  4. Mark a notch for 1/3 of the leg opening, closest to the side seam.  5. For the line goes above the waist, mark the width of your rings and sliders upwards from the line. I'm using 1/2" rings and sliders, so I'll make the line 1/2".  Then, connect the lines. The top of the rings and sliders mark meets with the 1/3 leg opening mark.  7. Complete the pattern piece by tracing the leg opening between the two marks.  On your base pattern, notch the two points on the pattern that intersect the waist, as well as the two leg opening notches. You're done! If all you want is the front to have the crossover straps, then you're done! You can move on to section 3, 'Sewing'.  If you're like the back to match the front, keep reading! The Back This is very similar to the front. In fact, it's pretty much the exact same: 1. Get a tracing sheet and put it over your back panty pattern piece.    2. Mark notches for the halfway point on the leg opening and the quarter mark from center front for the waist opening, as well as the 1/3 leg opening notch.  3. Connect the halfway leg notch and the waist notch. Extend the line out until it is in line with center back.    4. Mark up the width of your rings and sliders from the line, and then connect it with the 1/3 leg opening notch.  5. Complete the pattern piece by tracing the leg opening.    6. On your base pattern, notch the two points on the pattern that intersect the waist, as well as the two leg opening notches. Add seam allowance (guide below) and get sewing! These pattern pieces can be finished as either cut 8, or cut 4. If you do cut 4, you'll be cutting 2 for the front and 2 for the back and finishing them with elastics of your choosing.  If you cut 8, you'll be cutting 4 for the front and 4 for the back, and you'll be trimming 1/8" off of four of the "lining" pieces. This will prevent the back side from rolling to the front when worn.  The pieces are meant to be cut from a nonstretch fabric, or lined in a non-stretch fabric.  SEAM ALLOWANCE GUIDE This guide uses 3/8" elastic, but use whatever elastic you'd like. The seam allowance on the side connecting to the leg opening should match the seam allowance on your pattern.  If you Cut 4: If you cut 8:   SEWING  If you cut 4: Sew elastic or a trim to the long sides of the pattern pieces, front and back.  Finish your  If you cut 8: Finish the hack pieces first. Sew with a zigzag or serge the "lining" piece with 1/8" trimmed off of each long side to the front piece, and repeat for the other side. I suggest you include elastic in this seam, as depending on your fabric choice it may be a bit too frail to bear the straps and the stress of being under tension.  Do the same for the back.  Both: Next, match up the pattern pieces first along the leg openings, and then match up the waist notches. Make sure your pieces are lying flat and smooth! Then, measure for your waist straps and attach your rings to the straps. They should criss-cross right on center front and wrap around your waist and meet at the sides.  If you're doing just the front, your waist straps will meet at center back.  Make your adjustable straps, add your G-hooks, and voila!    Finished!   I encourage you to play around with notch placement to see the different looks you can create with this hack! I love the way it looks, and it's surprisingly comfortable to wear.  Happy sewing,  Megan xx